There are many glorious science-based terms when it comes to surfing. We all talk about swells, of course, the underwater energy that creates a breaking wave. But we'll look at swell angles and ...

IIIF provides researchers rich metadata and media viewing options for comparison of works across cultural heritage collections. Visit the IIIF page to learn more. This plaster model was most likely ...

Using relatively simple methods, the wave and current patterns in Engine Head Bay, Jamaica, a remote arcuate bay exposed to incident swell, have been investigated. A wave refraction program shows that ...

Refraction is described and students learn to draw diagrams of refracted waves. Refraction is described and students learn to draw diagrams of refracted waves. They also learn to describe diffraction ...

Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue No. 56. Proceedings of the 10th International Coastal Symposium ICS 2009, Vol. II (2009), pp. 1721-1725 (5 pages) Waihi Beach is an example of chronic ...